Here are some tips, tricks and workarounds from users. If you have any questions, please contact the author.

Super Slow Z Movement Workaround:

Author: baZzz

On the X40 PRO firmware version 1.2.0.3, the default feed rate for the Z-axis has been increased to 120

Fix Hot-end\Heatsink\Heat-break\Heat-creep Update:

Author: Warren Flack (Flackenstein)

If you experience z-height nozzle changes in either the left or right extruder it could be because of the small grub screw (M2 x 2mm set screw) stripping or not grabbing the heat break. The heat sink milling for the heat-break throat has too much air space around it and because of that there isn’t sufficient heat transfer to the heat sink and this can cause filament to melt high up in the heat tube. Fixing requires a bit of mechanical intervention and the following steps enhance heat break retention and reduce heat-creep.

Tools to complete the task:
x40 allen wrenches, (#29, #30, #31 or 2.9mm, 3.1mm, 3.3mm) drill bits, 4mm tap, tap/drill oil

Parts:
4mm 0.7pitch by 6mm set screw, High Temp thermal paste (Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste, Protronix Series 9 Thermal Paste)

1. Remove the hot-end module from the linear rail block.
2. Remove set screw from the right side of the heat sink and remove the nozzle assembly.
3. Detach the heat-sink from the hot-end assembly
4. Step drill the heatsink set screw hole using #29, #30, and #31 drill bits. You can also use 2.9mm, 3.1mm, and 3.3mm drill bit sizes. Recommend applying a drop of tap/drill oil for a clean drill.
5. Tap the drill hole for a 4mm 0.7 pitch screw. For a good tap use a drop of the tap oil again
6. When done, clean and degrease the heatsink.
7. Apply a small drop of the thermal compound to the set screw threads and insert into the heat block. Insert the set screw just enough to not block the heat break / throat insertion.
8. Apply a conservative amount of thermal compound to the heat break throat and insert into the heatsink
9. Tighten the set screw – with the 4mm by 6mm long set screw you will get a significantly more secure connection to the heat break and in combination with the thermal paste better heat reduction.
10. Clean up any excess thermal paste and inspect the tube for any thermal paste that may have entered during install.

View the image from the Weedo X40 webcam through a browser:

You can display the images from the Weedo X40 camera on a browser without a special app. The printer only has to be registered in your network and you have to know the IP address of the printer or assign a name to the printer in the router.

Camera settings:

• http://IP-address:8080/
  

To stream the live video, enter the following in the browser:

• http://IP-address:8080/?action=stream

To take a webcam photo, enter the following in the browser:

• http://IP-adress:8080/capture

With, the printer has the IP address 192.168.178.41 and the name Weedo-X40. So it is also possible:

• http://192.168.178.41:8080/?action=stream
• http://Weedo-X40:8080/?action=stream

Please note that only one device can access the webcam at a time. For example, if you take a time-lapse recording using Octoprint, you cannot watch the live stream on your smartphone at the same time. The same applies to the live stream and photo function. The photo function cannot be used during a live stream.

Set the Z-Level and Bed Level correctly

The correct setting of the Z-height is particularly important with the X40, since an incorrect Z-setting can damage the printer. The Weedo X40 is equipped with a so-called proximity switch. This sensor switches when a magnetic material reaches a distance of approx. 4mm. Since the printer cannot keep exactly at a distance of 0mm between the nozzle and the bed when taking measured values, a safety distance must be provided.

Printer setup

1. Use the handwheels on the bed to adjust the corners of the bed so that the compressed spring is approx. 10mm long. If the distance is too great, it can happen that the bed set changes or becomes possible in XY movements. If the spring length is too short, the bed cannot be raised because the spring is on the stand.
   
   
2. Use the arrow keys to move the left nozzle to the center of the print bed. Finally, use the arrow buttons on the display to reduce the distance between the nozzle and the heating bed to approx. 1-1.5mm. Now loosen the screws from the sensor and adjust the sensor so that the LED on the sensor just lights up.
   
   
3. Now reduce the distance between the nozzle and the bed to approx. 0.5 mm. Carefully approach the corners of the bed, making sure that the nozzle does not collide with the bed. Now roughly adjust the bed using the handwheels so that there is approx. 0.5mm air between the nozzle and the bed.
   
   
4. Now perform Z-Offset on the display. After the platform has been measured, the nozzle moves to the center of the bed. Place a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the bed and use the arrow keys to reduce the distance until the ball can just barely move. The offset value displayed should now be between -1mm and -1.5mm. If the offset is between -1mm and 0mm or even in the positive range, then the switching point of the sensor is wrong and a crash can occur. If necessary, adjust the sensor again. The sensor should switch when the nozzle is about 1mm to 1.5mm away from the bed. Click Save and complete the process and save the offset value!
   
   
5. Now carry out bed leveling via the display and set the bed exactly. The Z-height and the bed should now be set correctly. If the nozzle touches the print bed when using the bed knife, then you have done something wrong. When measuring, the nozzle must not touch the bed and certainly not press it down, otherwise the printer will spin and the printer may be damaged!

Feed the filament into the extruder

If you compress the spring using the lever and try to insert the filament, it very often gets stuck. You can solve the problem by starting the insertion of the filament on the display and only when the extruder wheel is turning, insert the filament without actuating the lever. After the process is complete, pull back the lever and advance the filament to the nozzle. Then start the insertion on the display again.
It's that easy!  

Hotend glued with plastic

The component has detached itself from the platform and the hotend is completely glued with plastic. How do I get the hotend clean again?

Heat the hotend and use a tool to clean the hotend as well as possible. Dismantle the nozzle, the heating block and the heat break. Place the nozzle, the heating block without insulation, heating cartridge and temperature sensor, as well as the Hearbrake in a glass with acetone. Seal the jar and wait a few days. Acetone dissolves most plastics. In between, remove heavy soiling with the scraper. Reinstall the cleaned hotend. A drawing of the hotend with the individual parts can be found on the X40 Community Cloud.

 If you also have a tip or found a workaround, send it to database (at) x40-community.org for publication